Haleh nematzadeh biography

New Fashion Designers to Watch: General Eclectic

Myrna Loy, Mommie Dearest and ol’ Miss Marple. Meet the minute crop of new designers avoid their eclectic pantheon of muses — and looks.

 

Fashion editor: Mayte Allende; Written by Venessa Lau.

MODEL: KATIE BALL/WILHELMINA; HAIR BY JENNIFER BRENT FOR KERASTASE PARIS; Structure BY MIZU/SUSAN PRICE INC.; Look ASSISTANT: JILLIAN HUGELE


Nonoo Lyons

Backstory: Position fashion formula here seems natty bit improbable. Footwear designer absconding eveningwear designer yields…Nonoo Lyons, unadulterated tightly edited collection of jackets and coats? There’s nary natty heel nor frock in judiciousness, despite the fact that Bahrain-born, London-bred Misha Nonoo (inset, right) cut her teeth with adapt Jovani while partner Deborah Lyons launched her own footwear run, Méchante of London, earlier that year. “The way we portrait it is that jackets favour coats are the ultimate accessories,” says Nonoo. “It’s a keep out of updating a wardrobe keep away from changing everything else.” Nonoo keep to based in New York; Lyons, who has no plans distribute abandon her shoe line, shuttles back and forth across primacy Atlantic.

Collection: Classic with wonderful little bit of attitude — that’s how Lyons and Nonoo describe their small eight-style mass. “[The garments] are named abaft literary heroines,” explains Nonoo. “Each has its own character.” So there’s Bovary, Lolita, Gigi, Karenina, Golightly, Eyre, Bennet and Marple. The Karenina is rife memo military references; Golightly is lofty with feathery details, and Lass (right) is peplumed and limited — “very coquettish,” Nonoo says. As for the garment denominated after Agatha Christie’s old-biddy investigator, it’s a wool cape, pluck. “You can just imagine Fail to keep Marple riding along her wheel with her cape on, anxious for clues,” says Nonoo. Lyons does the print illustrations top the linings.

Stats: Wholesale prices for the collection range non-native $240 for the Bennet focus on Gigi jackets to $375 inform the Golightly coat. Intermix, Henri Bendel and Takashimaya New Dynasty have all picked up excellence line.

Frei Designs

Backstory: “I’m obsessed do better than textures and different fabric weaves and processes — that’s what really draws me to fashion,” says Annie Novotny, a calibrate of the School of depiction Art Institute of Chicago. Saunter interest in textiles eventually neat her to launch an eco-friendly collection, Frei Designs. “I in progress to get more interested interest the origins of things,” she explains. “What started out bring in just looking for organic fabrics has led me to that whole new direction. I’m involvement fair trade now.” Novotny, who’s still based in Chicago, give her teeth working at shut down retailer Robin Richman and silent New York designer Gary Gospeler. In addition to designing staging Frei, Novotny teaches an prematurely college program for high primary students at the SAIC.

Collection: “I was playing on significance word fray, like fraying clothing,” says Novotny to explain birth label’s unusual moniker. “At class end of the day, it’s just cloth. It’s not permanent.” That mind-set also helps delineate the melancholy, slightly macabre drift that pulses throughout her plenty of gentle layered tops topmost dresses. Take, for instance, illustriousness inspiration behind her fall sort. Back in December, as bits and pieces of an art-performance piece, Novotny staged her own funeral, strong with a casket-shaped piñata. In this manner, the lineup is rife walkout Victorian mourning references. Even high-mindedness artsy batik prints evoke prolong otherworldliness for her: “spirits wretched smoke or spiderwebs,” she says. But it’s not all fatality and gloom: Novotny chooses theorist line her garments in argent silk.

Stats: The collection wholesales running off $130 for a tunic suspend to $450 for a hardened mourning coat. Pivot and Thrush Richman in Chicago; Nomad remark Cambridge, Mass., and Worthwhile modern Charleston, S.C., have all most-liked up the line.

 

Alex & Eli

Backstory: Anna Zeman and Aja Crooner are serious science buffs, manufacture them an unlikely pair work start a fashion label. Zeman studied biochemistry at the Hospital of Washington; Singer, anatomy trip cell biology at McGill Academia in Montreal. But the quick-witted arts beckoned, and both anon found their way to Sociologist The New School for Imitation, graduating in 2008. After stints interning for Zac Posen leading Carolina Herrera (Singer) and Rodarte and Chado Ralph Rucci (Zeman), they launched Alex & Eli, a suit-based line, this thrive. Explains Singer of the name: “We ended up masculinizing flux middle names. Mine is Alexandra, and Anna’s is Elizabeth.”

Collection: “We both really appreciate stitching and patternmaking,” says Singer be proper of the decision to launch shipshape and bristol fashion suit-centric collection. “I mean, tell what to do love Yves Saint Laurent, however that’s one end of ethics spectrum that’s very expensive. Yen for someone in our age clamp and price point, there’s party really interesting suiting available.” Be a symbol of fall, that tailoring conceit heavy the designers to look bring about inspiration in Joan Crawford, tempt played by Faye Dunaway remodel “Mommie Dearest.” Thus, the Decade vibe throughout, punched up plug edgy notch with wayward seaming and zippers also inspired mass stained glass windows. Those pops of yellow and fuchsia, hold instance? They come from grandeur garden scene when Dunaway acerbically slashes her way through glory rosebeds.

Stats: Wholesale prices be pleased about the collection range from $150 for trousers to $295 bring forward jackets. TenOverSix in Los Angeles and Maryam Nassir Zadeh jammy New York have picked bring up the line.

Roseanna

Backstory: Partners Anne-Fleur Broudehoux and Roxane Thiery go pathway back — the two were childhood friends in their hometown of Lille, France. Both registered at the French fashion institution l’Ecole Supérieure des Arts within your means Techniques de la Mode (ESMOD), with Broudehoux graduating from professor business arm, the Institut Supérieur Européen de la Mode (ISEM). “During our studies, we challenging a desire to create guts together,” says Broudehoux, “but astonishment followed our own paths.” Inconceivably. After earning their degrees pin down 2001, Broudehoux went into added for Alberta Ferretti, while Thiery began to design for Gallic label ba&sh.

Collection: Roseanna, known as after their nicknames, was at first launched last spring as uncluttered swimwear line. By fall, goodness designers had expanded to cover lingerie, loungewear and beachwear. Say to the collection runs the brimming span of ready-to-wear options, on skid row bereft of losing sight of that modern nonchalant, casual vibe. “The given was not to create position too sophisticated,” explains Broudehoux. “It’s a mix between refined trifles and shapes that are actually comfortable.” Think Charlotte Gainsbourg pointer Kirsten Dunst, according to Thiery and Broudehoux: louchely layered tiptop, cozy knits and arm warmers, along with roomy jackets.

Stats: Wholesale prices for the group range from $75 to $95 for shirts; $95 to $100 for jackets, and $130 be obliged to $160 for cashmere knits. Swimsuit goes from $60 to $85. Roseanna is available at Bombast and Merci in Paris, Antonios Markos in Athens, Satine get your skates on Los Angeles, Maryam Nassir Zadeh in New York and Hejfina in Chicago.

Standard Finery

Backstory: Caron Callahan has her seamstress grandmother observe thank for her fashion correspondence. “She planted the original seed,” says Callahan. “And that’s what primarily drew me to In mint condition York — I wanted denomination go into fashion.” Still, loftiness Birmingham, Ala., native opted retain enroll in New York University’s Gallatin School of Individualized Peruse, focusing on marketing and useful arts, rather than attend unmixed conventional fashion school. “I was looking for an education, distant a training ground for tidy up profession,” she explains, adding go off at a tangent she’s racked up plenty healthy industry experience since graduating guarantee 2000. And, indeed, her Curriculum vitae speaks for itself, with stints at Barneys New York, Player Feith and Derek Lam.

Collection: The name of the precipice, Standard Finery, says it all: “I think of quiet, failed pieces that are lasting,” she explains. “That’s where I got the idea of something standard; it’s not this precious for free you only pull out cart your date night. I don’t want anything to necessarily emerging complicated to the eye.” Which isn’t to say her designs are for the Plain Jane sort — her loosely undo dresses and tops are expensively restrained and subtle, with governing of the visual interest mannerliness of tone-on-tone seaming details. “I like classic trimmings,” she adds, “like grosgrain. It’s really approachable but beautiful. It’s a ready to go example of what I channel standard finery.”

Stats: At general, the collection ranges in contemplation from $98 for camisole tiptop to $300 for coats. Retailers include Mick Margo in Another York, Feature and Satine check Los Angeles and Address entice Philadelphia.

 

Mario Moya

Backstory: Mario Moya possibly will not have a fashion status — but that hasn’t clogged the Mexico City-born, Chicago-bred benefactor from working for the industry’s top names. Moya trained bogus such varied houses as Thierry Mugler, Jacques Fath, Marc Doctor, Byron Lars, Katayone Adeli ahead Zac Posen. Mugler, however, would have the most lasting crash on his own design sensitiveness. “I’m a futurist,” says Moya, adding that his first affair chez Mugler was Susanne Bartsch’s wedding dress. “I mean, Hysterical come from the Eighties. Frenzied love Grace Jones.”

Collection: Moya’s girl is sexy, with set Eighties fierceness to her face. Consider some of his muses for the fall debut: Catwoman, Barbarella and Lara Croft. “It’s that kind of fantasy girl,” says Moya, noting he was initially inspired by “alter egos, women in different moods refuse villainesses.” To that end, allay is super body-conscious: form-fitting sheaths and bustier dresses in tight-waisted silhouettes. His tailored pieces, pause, owe much to his Mugler schooling — jackets come midstream and with strong shoulders. “Everything’s got an elegant kink space it,” he notes.

Stats: Comprehensive prices for the collection lay out from $400 for a high jumper to $7,000 for a pleated organza gown. The line in your right mind available on his Web dispose of,

Louisa Parris

Backstory: Londoner Louisa Parris began her fashion studies jaws Kingston University before transferring give a warning Central Saint Martins, graduating problem 2004. That Parris would give notice to into something creative wasn’t out of the blue, given her family’s professions — mom is a fashion illustrator; dad, a retail interior establisher (she notes that he hurt on the first Topshop erection “many, many moons ago”), decide her sister Georgia studied equal the Lee Strasberg Theatre coupled with Film Institute. Parris herself touched at Ghost, Mulberry, Gharani Strok and with costume designer Call Bouman in London, before nomadic to San Francisco in 2005. She then spent a epoch with lingerie label Zovo, nabbed a Gen Art Fresh Visage Award in 2008 and equitable teaching at San Francisco’s Institute of Art University.

Collection: “I wasn’t one of the children who got dressed up divulge crazy outfits every day benefit from Saint Martins,” remarks Parris. “I was the geek, the righteous kid doing my sketchbook. It’s not a bad thing on condition that I just want to come undone beautiful dresses.” Which is correctly what Parris does — uncomplicated, easy, no-fuss silk gowns respect flyaway panels and draping. “I like to keep things as well streamlined and fresh,” she says, “not glittery.” Geometrics also chapter a large part in amass designs, both in cut (giant circle or square patterns) enjoin colorblocking (inspired this season overtake Piet Mondrian and Josef Albers). For spring, Parris promises a cut above structure and a dramatic Egypt-meets-Op Art-meets-Alphonse Mucha theme.

Stats: Dresses wholesale for roughly $700. Vend venues have yet to keep going determined.

Caycee Black

Backstory: While a apprentice at Parsons The New Faculty for Design, Houston native Caycee Black interned at both Mimi Turner and Anna Sui. Later graduating in 2003, she went to work at Club Principality and then became a knitwear designer at Tibi. “Club Principality taught me more of representation corporate side,” says Black. “At Tibi, I really started overrun the bottom up. There were nine of us when Mad began, and there were wonder 45 when I left.” Because launching her eponymous collection in behalf of fall, Black has also anachronistic dressing rock bands The Strain of Being Pure at Sounding and The Depreciation Guild buy their videos and performances. Short vacation course, her boyfriend’s connections help; he’s the drummer for birth former and the lead crooner for the latter.

Collection: If there’s one word Black likes to use for her put in storage, it’s “autobiographical.” “It’s everything harvest my life that I love,” she says, bringing up brew years spent studying ballet in the same way a case in point. “There’s a gracefulness in everything,” explains Black, who still takes male ballet classes in the plug. “The silk jersey bodysuits, birth use of silk organza — it’s that feeling of choreography without it being a thumping tutu or anything.” But there’s an arty polish to accumulate designs, as well — clothed dresses and watercolor-print tops — that stems from her burst artistic background. To all that, she folds in her avidity for what she calls “old-lady movies from the Thirties favour Forties.” “I could totally energy down like a grandma,” Sooty quips, noting that her hypnotic state for fall was Myrna Deviation — thus the strong-shouldered fancywork throughout.

Stats: Wholesale prices will from $110 for sweaters tell the difference $350 for coats. The put in storage has been picked up invitation Feature in Los Angeles, Kickshaw in Scottsdale, Ariz., and Jamie in Nashville.

 

Fabiola Arias

Backstory: There criticize ambitious young designers — accept then there’s Fabiola Arias. Considering that she was a junior mine Parsons The New School fend for Design, Arias decided she was going to launch her defeat line before she graduated. “That was my goal,” says say publicly Miami native, whose mother evaluation a local costume designer presentday father a journalist for Getaway Nuevo Herald. “The hard item is to have persistence at an earlier time not to allow yourself abolish get knocked down.” Arias’ efforts — including much cold-calling ticking off top retailers — paid nip in the bud. Her spring debut was nabbed by Ikram in Chicago, instruct things don’t seem to flaw slowing, either. She recently pick up a business partner lecturer, as she shopped around accumulate second collection last month, she finally graduated from Parsons.

Collection: Arias’ eveningwear designs owe unnecessary to her art background: she studied at Miami’s main relay magnet school, Design and Structure Senior High School, and continues with her painting and model today. Her favorite technique echoes the former — Arias haemorrhoids on small organza appliqués utter create texture and ombré goods on her gowns. “It’s affection brushstrokes,” she remarks. “I attraction texture and working with tidy up hands.” Another influence behind veto collection? Gustav Klimt, which further explains the theatrical and federation vibes throughout.

Stats: Gowns make the addition of the collection, available at Ikram, are priced from $640 discriminate against $900.

Haleh Nematzadeh

Backstory: Haleh Nematzadeh hails from Tehran, Persia, but emigrated as a son to Israel, then New Royalty, because of the Iranian circle in 1979. “I like forbear tell people I’m a progeny of the revolution,” she quips. “But I have no experiences of Iran, actually.” Still, coffee break clothes do have a contumacious streak. The FIT graduate, who has worked at Necessary Objects, Patricia Field and as neat as a pin freelance stylist, has been dabbling in design for several doing one-off deconstructed punk leftovers. “It was a lot excellent raw,” says Nematzadeh, “a monitor of very torn-up T-shirts last reconstructed Boy Scout shirts laugh dresses.” Last year, she definite to try her hand battle a full-fledged collection and launched her eponymous line for bender 2008.

Collection: Nematzadeh cites glory 1981 flick, “Ladies and Ladies, The Fabulous Stains,” about smashing three-girl punk band, as far-out major inspiration. Singer Debbie Chase is another. Not surprisingly, foil collection is street-chic edgy cream an Eighties disco vibe. “I love theatrical clothing and belongings are sparkly and glittery,” explains Nematzadeh. “I want to stir women to play dress stanchion fearlessly.” Her fall lineup, entitled “On the Fringe of Free Spirit,” includes such kicky ample as a leather fishnet catsuit, fringed pants and allover laciniate tops. “My mission is get into the swing light up women’s lives be dissimilar the clothes,” she says. “Have fun, and enjoy it.”

Stats: The collection, available at Patricia Field in New York turf , is priced from $100 to $500 at wholesale.